This is what I get from Manage Packages/list & install:
230 Anonymous access granted, restrictions apply.
ftp> hash
Hash mark printing on (1024 bytes/hash mark).
ftp> quote cwd /pub/xemacs/packages/package-index.LATEST.pgp/
550 /pub/xemacs/packages/package-index.LATEST.pgp/: Not a directory
ftp> quote cwd /pub/xemacs/packages/
250 CWD command successful.
ftp> ls "-al" /tmp/efselFxdx
200 PORT command successful.
150 Opening ASCII mode data connection for file list.
226 Transfer complete.
ftp>