Repeat by:
$ mkdir ~/.xemacs
$ chmod 0 ~/.xemacs
$ xemacs
^GOpening directory: Permission denied, /home/steve/.xemacs/
$
:-(
Both xemacs-packages/ and mule-packages/ must be readable as well.
It's probably better to ignore the permissions and blunder ahead
anyway. If XEmacs/Mule can't find mule-packages/ it's going to eat
flaming death, but an XEmacs/no-Mule ought to at least reach
*scratch*.